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This article describes the procedures for identifying and rectifying tamper faults in Intruder Alarm Systems. The procedures apply to hard wired systems and in the main to close loop type installations as opposed to EOL wired systems.
Properly installed alarm systems should have all the parts of the system protected by one or more tamper circuits. Each tamper circuit is a single closed loop such that a break in the loop at any point will cause a tamper alarm. The tamper alarm usually signals the internal sounder only when the alarm is unset (Day mode) and a full alarm when the alarm is set.
Typically there are at least four different tamper circuits - a global tamper circuit, control panel tamper, sounder tamper and a Remote Keypad (RKP) tamper.
Finding The Tamper Fault
The first step in finding a tamper fault is to identify which part of the tamper system is at fault. This is done by a process of elimination and because the control panel lid will have to be removed anyway the lid tamper can be quickly eliminated by holding the tamper switch closed and resetting the system. If the system resets, then the lid tamper is at fault. The tamper operating lever/spring can usually be adjusted so that it closes when the lid is fitted. If the tamper fault does not clear, then eliminating the other tamper circuits is made easier if the control panel lid tamper is taped in its closed position.
The other tamper circuits can then be eliminated in turn by fitting a link across the individual tamper terminals and attempting to reset the system. When fitting the links, the existing wiring can be either left in place or removed. With the sounder tamper, the wiring should be left in situ. Note; it is unlikely that there is a fault on more than one tamper circuit, but just in case there is, the links can be left in place until the system can be reset and the circuit at fault noted. The previously fitted links can then be removed one by one checking each time that the panel will reset.
Sounder Tamper Fault
WARNING:The strobe circuit in the sounder unit produces high voltages! Take care not to touch the strobe and its associated circuitry when working on the sounder.. The external sounder (or an internal sounder with an SAB) has one or more microswitches in the bell box which are wired into the tamper loop.
Global Tamper Fault
Finding the fault again uses the elimination method, however, before opening the panel and disturbing the wiring, make a visual inspection of the system - look for loose wiring, loose covers on junction boxes and detectors etc. If there are no obvious causes of the fault, proceed as follows.
This Article is Copyright and cannot be used commercially without express written consent of Sapphire Alarms. Illegal copies are detected by Copysentry2013-06-17 12:03:58
The house has a Veritas R8 installation with a RKP, which has the following info on the PCB D0129-02.01 (C) Texcom 1999. I replaced the lead acid backup battery July 2012. There is an external ‘Flash Guard’ Strobe/Sounder fitted with the original installation, circa 2001. I now want to replace the battery in the ‘Flash Guard’ unit. I am unable to determine from ground level, whether it is a XL plus or 100T model? Would you please advise how to replace the battery for either model?
I am getting false alarms on my burglar alarm, at night at 1 30 am, 3 times now. it has been suggested I fit one of your ACT Meters 12v Spike Suppressor, is this fitted in between the red positive cable to the battery and earth please.
Lee, I have successfully added an LCD remote keypad to my Optima Compact G4 but the exit beeps now only work on the RKP. Even if I set the alarm from the main panel the beeps still only work on the RKP. Is this normal? Is there any way I can alter the system settings so the beeps are on both the main panel and the RKP?
I came across your site and have found your articles very useful in deciding which alarm system to go for. I'm thinking of buying the Texecom Premier Elite 48 'kit' and taking my time installing myself, I just have a couple of quick questions...
- I'm conscious this system is aimed at the professional installers but will the kit be supplied with engineers manual?
- on the Texecom website there's an option to download the wintex and other software for connecting to computer but you need to register as an 'installer' to download them - I've not tried registering but just wondered if you know whether it's possible to download/use the software if you're not an 'installer' as such but own their system.
I bought the Accenta G4 and an Odyssey 1/1E from you and am trying to connect them. The problem I have is that the terminals have different names and I can't work out what goes to what. The G4 has T, A, D, B and Strobe neg. The Odyssey has A, B, C, D and S. Confused! Please help.