Introduction

• The simplest replacement is to replace like with like. Where this is not possible, the next best option is to replace the panel with one from the same manufacturer, as the programming and terminal layout are likely to be similar.
• The major problem arising when replacing a panel with a different model or one from a different manufacturer is in the external sounder connections. For example on a relatively old system, the sounder manufacturer may not be known or may not be documented in the control panel's installation manual. In this case it may be better to install a new sounder along with the control panel. It is possible to work out the connections to an undocumented sounder but it may require the use of a test meter and a bit of guesswork.
• In the vast majority of cases all the existing detectors and signalling devices will be compatible with the new control panel, although the tamper wiring may have to be changed - on older panels, zones were normally wired with individual tamper circuits, on newer panels the tamper circuit is usually a global circuit with all the tamper pairs connected into one loop,

Removing the Existing Control Panel

1. Isolate the mains electricity supply to the panel either at the fuse box or by removing the fuse from the fused spur. If the external sounder sounds when the power is removed then the battery in the control panel is not charged or is not present. In this case the external sounder is using its internal battery to operate the sounder and the only way to stop it without re-applying the mains power is to remove the cover from the external sounder and disconnect its internal battery. Note; you may have to disconnect the battery later in the procedure so it may be better to disconnect the sounder battery at this stage.
2. Open the contol panel. The external and internal sounder(s) will sound. Enter the user code to silence the sounders.
3. Remove the mains connections at the terminal block in the control panel.
4. Work out how the wiring is arranged in the control panel, this may look a mess or it may have been neatly labelled on installation. Basically you should be able to identify the following connections.
   • Zone connections. These are the connections for the normally closed (NC) detectors on the zone. There should be one pair of wires connected to any used zones. Unused zones may have links fitted across them to simulate a closed loop. There may also be two wires connected to the tamper terminals associated with the particular zone. Occasionally there may be an extra wire connected to one of the zone terminals - this is for a normally open (NO) detector such as a pressure mat. The two closed loop wires connected to the zone terminals may be linked to other detector pairs which are connected to the same zone, as may the tamper pair.
   • Auxiliary power supply. If powered detectors are connected to the system then there will be one or more power supply pairs connected to these two terminals. Power to detectors is connected in parallel.
   • Remote keypad (RKP) connections. If one or more RKPs are connected to the system there will be up to 6 wires connected to a terminal block on the PCB. If the RKPs are to be re-used with the new control panel then the wires will need to be labelled before removal. If the RKPs are not being kept then the wires can simply be removed as can the RKP(s), but retain the wiring for fitting replacement RKP(s) as required.
   • Loudspeaker connections. The control panel may have a loudspeaker fitted inside the control panel which is connected to the loudspeaker terminals on the control panel. There may be a additional loudspeakers fitted remotely from the panel. These can be labelled and removed. Polarity is usually unimportant.
   • PA (personal attack) connections. This is another closed loop and may have 2 wires or a link connected. If more than one PA is on the system then these will be looped together before connection to the PA terminals.
   • Bell (sounder) connections. There will be 5 or 6 terminals for connecting the external sounder. How these are labelled is particular to the control panel. The terminals have the following functions.
     • Permanent Positive Supply (+12V) - also termed +ve hold off
     • Switched Negative to Activate Sounder
     • Negative Tamper Return
     • Permanent Negative Supply (0V) - also termed -ve hold off, this is the tamper feed
     • Switched Negative to Activate Strobe
     • Strobe positive supply (not always present)
5. Remove the existing wiring as follows
   1. Disconnect the control panel battery. If the external sounder sounds, remove the cover from the external sounder and disconnect its internal battery.
   2. Label and remove the PA wires (if present).
   3. Label and remove the wires to loudspeakers (if present).
   4. Label and remove the RKP wiring (if present).
   5. Label and remove the wiring to the Speech Dialler or Communicator (if present). If a speech dialler is on the system then this may be connected to trigger from the external sounder trigger.
   6. Examine the wires connected to each zone and identify any wires that are not looped into other cables. Identify which detectors these are connected to and label and remove them and their associated tamper and power supply pairs (if present).
   7. Where several detectors are looped together in the control panel, they should be separated and the individual detectors identified. Note; detectors may also be looped together remotely from the panel.
   8. Label and remove the wires from all the remaining zones, tamper and power supply terminals.
   9. If any wires remain connected to the control panel then attempt to identify these and label them before removal.
   The control panel should now have no external connections to it.
6. Remove the control panel.

Installing The Replacement Control Panel

1. Decide on the positioning of the new control panel bearing in mind the following.
   • The panel should be positioned such that the existing wiring can be connected into the panel. The mains cable may need to be extended or shortened.
2. Mark the position of the fixing holes and drill and plug the fixing holes.
3. Remove any required break-outs from the panel.
4. Offer the panel to the wall and thread the existing wiring through the break-outs.
5. Fix the panel to the wall.
6. Arrange for an electrician to connect the mains supply cable from the fused spur to the control panel. DO NOT apply mains power to the panel while the panel cover is open - REMOVE THE FUSE from the fused spur.
7. If applicable, connect at least one remote keypad.
8. Connect the internal loudspeaker.
9. Connect the battery and follow the initial power-up instructions for the control panel. Put the panel into engineer mode.
10. Connect the detector alarm pairs into the desired zone terminals. These can be tested as they are installed. Note; when testing circuits with powered detectors present, allow time for the detector to warm-up (around 30 secs).
11. Connect any NO detectors across one of the zone terminals and one of the tamper terminals. The tamper pairs from NO detectors are connected into the tamper loop as for NC detectors.
12. Connect all the tamper pairs together to form a continuous loop and connect the two remaining wires into the global tamper terminals.
13. Connect the PA circuit if required. If the PA circuit is not used a link should be fitted across it.
14. Connect the speech dialler or communicator if required.
15. Connect the external sounder bearing in mind the following.
    • The majority of control panel and external sounder installation manuals have charts for connecting various panel/sounder pairings. Where the sounder and panel are not listed the wiring can be determined by matching the functions of the terminals in the panel and sounder.

      A typical control panel will have at least 5 connections for connecting the SAB sounder. Sometimes a sixth terminal is present - Strobe +ve, but this is actually the same feed as the permanent +v supply.

      • Permanent Positive Supply (+12V) - also termed +ve hold off
      • Switched Negative to Activate Sounder
      • Negative Tamper Return
      • Permanent Negative Supply (0V) - also termed -ve hold off, this is the tamper feed
      • Switched Negative to Activate Strobe
      • Strobe positive supply (not always present)
      A typical wiring scheme for the Txecom Veritas series of panels is shown below as a guide.

      

      The control panel is usually factory fitted with a link across the tamper feed and return which allows you to determine two of the terminals (the link should be removed on installation). The other terminals can then be identified from the installation instructions for panel and sounder.

      When the correct connections have been made the final connection is usually to activate the sounder by connecting the sounder's internal battery. The installation manual for the sounder details the procedure. Finally fit the sounder cover, ensuring that the tamper switch(es) close.

      If no other signalling devices are to be installed then the system can be programmed - see below.

Programming the System

Conclusion